Central America - Southern - Panama, Costa Rica and Nicaragua

Central America is a chill zone as far as riding is concerned – no more massive 10-12 hour days, day after day after day as everything is closer and there’s little planning required as there’s not so much in the way of the remote locations that you get as you travel through South America; the weather is warmer, and if Spanish is not your first language then you will not have to go several days only speaking it!

Oh and thee food is much improved after South America.

I rode north through 6 countries after arriving from Panama via boat (Stahlratte); Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala and Belize before crossing into Mexico and leaving the bike in Cancun for next time.

Heres a summary of the countries I passed through.

Panama

The boat docked 2 hrs ride south of the capital, Panama City after spending (not long enough) in the San Blas Islands.

My diary except during that time:

‘Sabado 17 Oct 2015 - Sail to PANAMA on Stahlratte. I write this as I want to capture the moment as I can’t take a photo. Its half 9pm and we sail towards a low slung crescent moon. The stars are clear and with a 180degree view they blanket the sky with small storms lighting up pockets on the horizon. We are cutting through clouds of phosphorescent plankton which sparkles like fireflies on the bow wave. I never want to forget this scene because it’s incredible. I hope ive watched it long enough to be burnt into my memories. This was of course after watching an incredible sunset’.

.. and the next day..

‘Ive just swum in the night with phosphorescent plankton! How frikkin amazing’.

After Panama City I got as far north as Mammallena at Valle de Anton, 100km out of PC. That is where I stayed for the next 5 weeks – I had arrived drenched as the back end of the monsoon was still going strong at that time throughout the whole of southern Central America.

Docking in Panama (below)

I immediately liked it there, I thought the place and the people there were super cool so I stayed.

Once the sun started shining and feeling like I’d had a proper rest after 10 months in South America, I headed off via Playa Morillo and Santa Catalina on the Pacific coast, the Lost and Found (Route 10) in the inland hills and Bocas del Toro on the Caribe coast.

I arrived in monsoon season. Santa Catalina (below)

Parking out by the Lost and Found Hostel (below)

Going bike free to Bocas del Toro (below).

Costa Rica

The border crossing was the longest ever – 4 hrs I was there waiting in line with all the backpackers in the baking sun. Luckily, I made border buddies and we helped each other out with all the necessary formalities etc (and going to the bathroom, as you do).

My first location was Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean coast (photo, right and below) just after the border (I recommend La Ruka hostel). Here was just horizontal. I swapped my bike out for a pushy for a couple days and cycled around all the beaches.

Heading north, I rode along the coast past Limon then inland to Orosi (did I mention no more long days? Well I lied.. there were some), Cachi (for the southern side of Lago de Cachi, Paraiso, Volcan Irazu (photo, above, and on the way up, photo, right) to San Jose (a necessary evil – I desperately needed to replace my utterly ruined ‘held together with duct tape’ boots).

Then it was San Jose to La Fortuna via Volcan Poas (the guy on the gate told me it’s too cloudy to see anything so didn't go in and saved myself $15).

After arriving drenched at La Fortuna and drying out for a couple days, I made a run for the Pacific coast as the weather in the central hills was not improving, and on to Punta Arenas for the ferry over to ‘the Peninsula’ where it was hot and dry.

Inland river bridges (below)

The 'Peninsula' on the Pacific Coast (below)

I rode around the coast on sandy dirt roads via Playa Santa Teresa, Playa Manzanillo, Playa San Miguel, Samara and Marbella.

The Peninsula was lovely, id spent 3 days there – there’s a few water crossings on that route too, plus an actual River – yes a River. Seeing that I had one of my ‘really?’ moments again. But then I saw some local boys go through it and they were fine, and so was I.

Before moving north I stayed at a surf camp for 2 weeks over Xmas near Tama’Gringo’ – however, we were out in the jungle so away from all the parties of that tourist trap.

You know they actually put sugar syrup on the dirt roads in the town to keep the dust down? It flicks up and sticks to your legs when you ride through it.

Before crossing the border, I stayed at one more place which was a monkey-sloth-bird watching hideaway in the jungle complete with over-landers campsite; Cabanas Canas Castillo.

Nicaragua

From my diary on entry:

‘Got to border at 9am. 3 hrs later I’m done.

Penas Blancas is super confusing but still fun. Lots of buildings to find and stages in the process. Costa Rica, sort your queues out! Immigration was easy after a half hr wait. I thought I’d skip CR Aduana but got sent back by the Nicar police check, so I doubled back for the necessary stamp out of CR (they wanted a copy of my form too). For Nicar it was hard to actually find the right building for immigration, then pay 1$ for something then $12 entrance for a stamp-in.

Next was Nicar Aduana; bring bike over from fumigation where id ditched it and get it 'checked' by policeman for the entry declaration form who I had to wait for and follow around with a group of car drivers. Having literally gone through bags in peoples cars he just looked at my fully packed up bike, nicely asked me about my trip, signed the form and sent me to the 'muchacha' for a stamp. I saw lots of Cubanos at the border camping out. Nicaragua wont let them through on their journey to the US.’

Then I go get insurance, the quickest part with no waiting and cheap! $12 for a month. Then I actually go to the Nicar Aduana desk with all my bits of paper for the TIP. 'Nada mas?' Woop done apart from a stop/form check 100m down the rd.
Then, lol, I got pulled over by the police a few km further on. I guess when he saw my Chilean plate he though 'oh fuck it' cos he just ended up waving me on.

What a process!' The Central Americans are actually famous for it – so I would go there with food/drinks and expect to spend hours there, I’d take off my moto gear and just cruise around in shorts and thongs to keep the heat levels down and avoid the rising stress that these places cause. Was always a good Spanish speaking experience too.

Firstly, I stayed at the beach (photos, above and right) north of San Juan for a week in my hammock over the New Year period, hanging out with some local expats id met.

On leaving, I took a (I must admit a little bit scary) lancha to the island of Ometepe (photos, rights and below). The guys just took the bike over a plank and strapped it on deck; there and back.

After riding around the 2 massive volcanoes on the island, I went back to the Pacific coast to Playa Gigantes and Playa Popoyo before heading to Granada. I continued on via Laguna del Apoyo, Volcan Masaya, El Transito, Leon, Jinotega and Estelli.

I lastly stayed at (and took a day tour through) the Canon del Somoto just before crossing the border.