Central America - Northern - Honduras, Guatemala, Belize and south east Mexico

Honduras

Id heard funny things about Honduras – you hear ‘funny things’ about everywhere I know but id just heard more ‘funny things’ about Honduras if you know what I mean.

I guess this is linked to San Pedro Sula being No. 1 in the whole wide world for murders. I actually pre-booked (yes! Pre-booking was unknown to me as this stage) in the capital Tegucigalpa for this reason.

I literally crossed the border and rode straight there – a big enough day really (3hrs border crossing + 200km) but doable.

Diary entry for the day:

‘Up at 6am with the chickens and the barking dogs to pack and get to La Espina Border for 7am. Aduana on exit done; outta Nicar now I’m stood in the immigration queue behind about 50 Honduran bus passengers that appears not to be moving because as usual there’s only one person working.

Children are staring at me, actually a lot of people are staring at me.

Im back to being the only westerner at the border.. paid $2 to leave.

So that took ages, then at Honduras Immigration I’m asked for my yellow fever cert; first time since I got it for Africa years ago. I saw some $$ being passed over in passports by the locals here; might’ve been the $3 entry cost or something else but it seemed a bit discreet.

At Aduana entry I have to pay $36 for the bike! First time payment at Aduana my whole trip. They want the usual copies of stuff too. I also get a moto stamp in my passport’.

Moving on from Teguci, I rode to stay at the D&D Brewery on the Lago de Yojoa before doubling back south for the delightful little towns of Gracias, Santa Rosa de Copan and Copan Ruinas.

Suffice to say, Honduras was pleasant enough an no ‘funny things’ were observed during my time in there.

Apart from this! - Creature encounters on the road (photo, right)

Lago de Yojoa (below)

Gracias town (below)

Copan Ruins (below)

Guatemala

Ah Guatemala – like being back in South America; very rural, with llamas, high altitude and brightly clothed indigenous folks who speak a whole ‘nother language.

My first day was massive – seems I’m continuing a trend although I was sure there wasn’t much to see before getting to Antigua:

‘Unexpectedly made it through the border in one hour (where Guat customs officer joked id just signed our marriage papers) and then 300km to Earth Lodge which is a mission in itself. Roads were good, scenery non-descript mostly so was easy just not hanging around. After lunch I met some Harley riders who lived in Antigua returning from a day ride. They brought me all the way in which was amazing got here just at sunset having come over the mountains along steep paved/cobbled single lane. Managed to get into the 'parqueo' (besides the outdoor ‘clothes-wash house’ grab my bag and hike into the lodge’ just as it got dark’.

After several days in Antigua, I stayed at San Marcos, Lago Atitlan for yoga then Chichicastenango for the market day.

I then rode into the more remote hilly country (on dirt roads and at elevation once again) of the northwest corner, staying at Todos Santos Cuchumatan and Barillas, then riding via Playa and Raxruha before getting into Lanquin for Semuc Champey.

After Semuc, I rode out east on dirt roads to El Estor on the northern edge of Lago de Ixabel where I arrived absolutely filthy as id had a slow, wet muddy ride 130km.

I rode via the town of Rio Dulce before heading off north to El Remate beside Lago Peten Itza.

I stayed here a few days doing day trips to Tikal and Flores before heading to the border with Belize.

Lago Atitlan (below)

Lago Atitlan - small lanes in the villages

Chichicastenango market day

On route to Todos Santos (below)

On route to Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey (below)

Leaving Semuc Champey

El Remate (below)

Belize

What a fabulously easy border crossing – and a surprise everything is in English.

In Belize, I stayed initially at San Ignacio; day tripping out to 1000ft falls then ride down the Hummingbird Highway stopping at the national parks before arriving at Hopkins for a few days.

I did one big day up to Corozal from there where I left the bike to boat trip out to Caye Caulker.

Belize was a truly a breeze with some nice graded dirt roads and lovely A roads

Hopkins beach (below)

The pier at Corozal (above) for the boat to Caye Caulker (below)

Mexico

Crossing through to Mexico was a piece of cake; I rode straight to Bacalar and slept in my hammock on the balcony of a hostel for a few days.

After that it was a straight shoot (although very dull riding) up to Tulum where I spent a week doing day rides (Punta Allen is recommended – although maybe when it’s dry; much fun though), visiting the cenotes and ruins and lazing on the beach.

I then put the bike in storage in Cancun and flew out to live to bike another day!