Route through Colombia

One thing I had actively been avoiding was arriving into a town after dark, especially if that town is a border town (Personal Safety 101), however this changed when I hit Colombia seen as the Aduana were in some sort of meeting that afternoon.

So, I spent longer than expected just hanging around waiting.

I did manage to get insurance though – the first time for a while.

I did also, however, roll into a very dark Ipiales hassle free.

My route north took me first to Popayan where I found a new (decent) front tyre (amidst all the crappy Chinese ones you can so easily obtain in Colombia).

After there, I went southeast to San Agustin and then north for a very hot ride via Pitalito to el Desertia del Tatacoa (the desert, photos above and below)

I continued northwest to the major coffee growing region and stayed in Salento (below, right photo) to do some day rides around that area before heading first east to loop back to Manizales via the back road to Ibague (past Cerro Volcan Machin), Libanao and Murrilo (at 3000m elev.) for Parque Nevada del Ruiz (at 4100m elev. see highlights below).

Coffee plantations around in the valleys near Salento (below)

El Penon, Guatape (photo, above) and the view from the top (photo, below). Guatape is such an adorable place.

I continued north on the back road to stay at Salamina and onto Medellin before crossing the Cordillera in a south-westerly direction to stay at Rio Negro (photo, above), before continuing across the range to Bogota.

Bike streets in Bogota (photo, above) - much the same as all the bikey streets through the rest of South America - general mayhem prevails.

After Bogota, I rode north through Zipaquira and Chinquiquira for Villa de Leyva. Here I took this mad little route north, just sticking to the side of the mountain range before popping out (by now very thankful) on one of the main north – south roads to San Gil (see highlights below).

Here I got a new relay and front brake pads at the Honda dealer.

Chichamocha Canyon had been recommended by a Colombian friend, so I rode out from San Gil through Galan and Zapatoca to Giron for the day (see highlights below).

After that, (and actually after having to replace my bent bars and smashed lights in Giron – Id slid on a corner and went down hard having come out of the canyon – on the paved road I add!), I continued north somewhat bruised.

I was now out of the mountains and sweating my face off riding into a hairdryer for 2 days until I hit the Caribbean coast (photo, below for a typical beach style place to stay) and spent the next 3 weeks beaching and day-riding around the Sierra de Santa Marta before heading onto Cartagena to board the boat out to Panama.

Palomino National Park (below)

Some of the inland trails in the Sierra de Santa Marta (below)

Parking in Cartegena looks like this - id ditched the bike for 3 days

My South American journey had come to an end, and it was time for a new and distinctly different adventure, starting with the amazing Stahlratte (photo, below).

Highlight: Nevado del Ruiz (1/2 day, 240km)

Looping in an anticlockwise direction from Salento via Cerro Volcan Machin, Ibague (stayed here overnight), Libano, Murillo and Parque Nevado del Ruiz, and onto Manizales.

My diary entries for the first part of the ride...

'Awesome ride on the back farm track rds out past Volcan Machin (which you cant actually see) but the ride and valley views were amazing. . Plus the SLOTH! So happy to see that. 100km on dirt then into Imbague Metropol Hotel (32000CP) for the night'

..and the second part...

'First 90km fast on the flat/rice/plains then back into the Cordillera and dirt/rocks through the park. Great ride, fab views over the volcanic terrain, lots of waterfalls and some small water crossings too.. woot and then the paved twisties into Manizales'.

This guy was literally asleep here when i came round the corner. I 'helped' 2 locals put it back in a tree.

Highlight: Villa de Leyva to San Gil (1 Day, 160km)

Heading north out of Villa de Leyva, past the small settlements of Cucaita, Arcabuco, La Palma, el Salto, Gambita, Rio Ariba and Materramo. The ‘main’ road of Duitama-Charala Rd to San Gil.

My diary entry of the day (I was having some issues with the relay so the bike wasn't starting particularly well today) ...

'Well if id have known what a mad enduro route this would be id've left before noon! But glad I had a good double shot coffee in the plaza before hand. After 20km north to Arcabuco it turned unsealed and quite rocky. For 40km then from Gambita actually a bit of a wake up call with rock ledges/loose rocks and the last few km loose boulders; it was like enduro cross! But heaps of fun and I was worried about the turn off being closed/fenced off because there's no way I would've got back up that last downhill part.

I hit the turn off and congratulated myself for not dropping the bike and continued for 40km more on a better but still rocky rd.. with a river crossing.

Got a bit wet with a bit of rain and then finally the last 50km was sealed and potholed. By this time its dark.. added excitement riding along goggles off (too scratched for nighttime riding) and heaps of bugs in my face/eyes.. oh yeh and only being able to stop on hills all day so I can jump start. I was super lucky with my hotel choice as I drove straight into their courtyard car park at Abril (35,000CP). I wouldve had to push the bike around town looking for somewhere to stay!

Highlight: Chichamocha Canyon (1 Day, 150km)

From San Gil through Galan and Zapotoca to Giron. I didnt write much today in the diary about the ride , mostly about the stack I had coming out of the canyon..

'Lovely ride then.. I stacked it just outta Giron coming over a cement bridge covered in silt. . Didn't slow down enough bike just slid out and I just literally stayed in position like last time (Bolivia) but without being trapped underneath. Two guys stopped n picked me and the bike up. Bent bars/ both mirrors smashed and left hand front indicator cover smashed.. only in Colombia where 20 minutes later I roll into Giron's 'moto street' and into a garage.

Its 6pm and they are currently putting on new pro taper bars at 152000CP (en serio! I had to double check as they are super cheap), new mirrors and indicator. Whole lot fitted 168000CP.

My left thigh is sore there will be a big bruise manana. Oh my helmet visor has bust off the side too but its taped on. Should be right.

The rescuers taped all my stuff together! Ya so that took an hr then im trying to find a hotel in Giron in the dark that took ages finally after an age of riding around asked a nice old security guard in the plaza n he pointed me over the plaza to Las Neaves at 58000CP.. a bit pricey but its dark my leg hurts hell, its sweaty hot and I can park in the lobby'.